Writing with Honesty and Humility
Critical Mick discusses karma and vomiting with Irish Ex-Pat Paul Garrigan, author of Last Escape: Recovering from Addiction at Wat Thamkrabok. An unruly email interview, October 2008.
Critical Mick: What's a nice Irish boy from a good family doing in a Thai detox temple?
Paul Garrigan: It is tempting to look back on my life and see it all as one big narrative leading to where I am today; sort of re-writing the past to explain where I am now. I suppose we all do that. When I admitted myself to Wat Thamkrabok I certainly felt like I belonged there.
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 Critical Mick's review of Paul Garrigan's Last Escape: Recovering from Addiction at Wat Thamkrabok
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Paul Garrigan, con't: I suppose that the reason why I ended up in a Thai detox was that I was making a bit of a mess of my life and wasn't happy with the situation - my past karma led me there.
CM: Seriously: Chapter One of your memoir, Last Escape: Recovering from Addiction at Wat Thamkrabok, brings you through the gates. How and when did you first hear about Wat Thamkrabok?
PG: Well Mick, I came across the temple during an internet search, At the time I was living in a remote part of Thailand and would like to tell people that I was 'living the dream'.
PG: The village certainly had all the ingredients of a paradise; tropical scenery, easy-going villagers for neighbours, sunshine every day, and living far away from the McWorld. This was my 'Lake Isle of Innisfree', but the 'peace that came dropping slow' needed to be helped along with alcohol.
PG: The village was perfect in many ways, but unfortunately my addiction was spoiling things. My days revolved completely around alcohol and so the external decoration didn't really mean that much. I might as well have been living in a bus station in Birmingham for all the help that I was getting from the peaceful environment.
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PG: Most days I would start drinking in the morning and by the evening would be drunkenly surfing the internet looking for any web-sites that offered information about addiction recovery. I would join these recovery internet forums, but would often only visit the once because I would never be able to remember my forum nickname or password. It was desperate really and sometimes it is easy to forget just how bad things were. The worst thing was that this behaviour was not new to me; I had been trying to get away from alcohol for fifteen years. Before I became a regular internet user I would spend a lot of time in pubs reading addiction recovery books. A bit sad really isn't it?
PG: Anyway, the night that I came across the website for Wat Thamkrabok was just another of these drunken web-crawls. The information leapt out at me and for the first time in years I really felt that there was a possibility that something could work for me. The temple seemed to be everything that I was looking for. The strange thing was that I had not heard about the temple prior to this despite my searches. In a way I'm glad about this because as the saying goes; 'when the pupil is ready, the teacher appears'.
CM: Tell us about Wat Thamkrabok. (Yes, I know you've written a whole book on the subject… just a summary will do.)
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PG: Thamkrabok is a drug rehabilitation unit that is part of a temple and is run by a group of Buddhist monks. Many of these monks are ex-addicts themselves and offer a unique service which some of us would describe as 'magical'. Despite the fact that it is a Buddhist temple there is no pressure to become Buddhist or even learn about Buddhism.
PG: The temple is famous for the medicine which you take in the evenings during your first five days. This concoction is an emetic and once you try it you will never forget it. The medicine speeds along the detox process.
PG: The thing that I found most helpful in the temple was their philosophy. Rather then seeing our previous addiction as the enemy, it describes it as a tool which we used to get through life. We developed an addiction to cope with things because we had lost our way. Once we find our way back to our own unique path then the need for our addiction is gone. The aim is not only to detox our bodies but to use the time in the temple to clear our minds and hopefully find a meaningful direction in life.
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The village was perfect in many ways, but unfortunately my addiction was spoiling things. My days revolved completely around alcohol and so the external decoration didn't really mean that much. I might as well have been living in a bus station in Birmingham for all the help that I was getting from the peaceful environment. |
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PG: I think though that the real secret to the temple's success is the satja; the vow to never drink or use again. You can only make this vow once and so you can only go through the detox once; no second chances. This is so different from the 'revolving-door' policies of treatment centres in the West. The Thais believe that if you keep your satja then great things will come into your life and this has been my experience.
CM: Is this that joint where Pete Doherty went? Man I hate that guy. I can only think of one song he's ever done. Dude doesn't deserve to be famous.
PG: I hadn't really heard about Pete Doherty until I went to the temple. I have been away from the music scene in Ireland and the UK for a few years and missed out on his rise to fame.
PG: I heard that he came to the temple, but discharged himself in a rush. According to the newspapers he claimed that the monks hit him with bamboo sticks and forced him to take the medicine. He also apparently made lots of other crazy allegations and gave the temple a lot of bad press. You still occasionally get people using his reports as evidence that Wat Thamkrabok is some type of crazy place and not to be recommended.
PG: It annoys me that people like Pete Doherty might turn people off getting help from the temple. Addicts tend to be a suspicious lot and any bad press can be enough to sway them against getting help.
PG: Despite this though I can't really be angry with him. I have done the same myself to other groups who have tried to help me. I stayed sober in AA for two years in my mid-twenties but later would rant about how crap they were. I am sure if Wat Thamkrabok hadn't worked I would have no problem voicing my negative opinions. Alcoholics and addicts can be ungrateful bastards.
PG: The thing I do feel bad about is the Thai monks. Thai people do not understand this type of behaviour. They are offering a service for free and it is thrown back in their faces. A while back you had 'adventure tourists' checking into the temple for a laugh. How do you explain this behaviour to Thai people; this lack of respect just does not exist in their culture.
CM: I hate puking.
PG: If you are an alcoholic like I was then puking becomes an occupational hazard. Puking accompanied my early days of drinking when I hadn't the tolerance and would vomit after a flagon of cider. Later puking became the sign of a good night out. At the end of my drinking I would vomit until I was able to get a couple of bottles inside me in the morning. It seems appropriate that puking should be part of the cure somehow.
PG: The medicine at the temple isn't pleasant, but it does work. It certainly makes you teachable anyway. It is hard to continue with the usual arrogant addict behaviour when you are kneeling in front of a bucket, vomit coming out your nose, and facing a crowd of people who are clapping hands and singing songs at you. You can't buy humility like that.
CM: The chapters blend descriptions of the temple treatments with remembrances (meditations, even?) of the life experiences that brought you there. Some of the stories were surprising. The fact that you took a job in Saudi Arabia, for instance, expecting it to be an alcohol-free country- then finding it overflowing with homebrew!
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PG: I have tried many methods of controlling my addiction over the years and Saudi definitely needs to be listed under failed attempts. It seemed like the perfect answer. A country where alcohol was banned. How could I fail? Just before the move there I had been told, during a medical check-up, that my liver was damaged. This only added to my conviction that Saudi was the place to be.
PG: As soon as I landed in Ryiadh it became obvious that I had made a mistake. The Saudi whose job it was to bring me to my apartment wasted no time in showing me where the illegal grog was kept in my villa. He must have noticed something in my manner that suggested that I was a bit of a drinker. I quickly found that despite alcohol being against the law there was an easy supply of illegal stuff which was not only really cheap but also lethal in its strength. Within a few weeks I was drinking more than I had been before arriving in Saudi.
PG: I was not the first to make this mistake. A few months before my arrival another drunk had died on the compound from liver complications. I am sure he saw Saudi as a cheap detox too. I feel grateful to have made it out of there alive, but feel sorry that he didn't.
CM: Have you returned to the temple since, this time as a volunteer to help those currently undergoing treatment?
PG: I now live less than 20 km away from the temple. While I was looking for full-time teaching work I noticed a job advertised in Lopburi- which is a city near Thamkrabok. I saw its close proximity to the temple a good omen and so took the job. I had dreams of spending a lot of time at Thamkrabok.
PG: The truth is that I have only visited about three times since my move. Teaching in a busy city school takes up a lot of time, but I also found that it is not that important for me to be there. The best way that I can thank the temple is by keeping my satja and living a good life. It would be easy for me to try and turn the temple into some type of ongoing support group, but that doesn't seem necessary.
PG: Of course, if there is any way that I can help the temple I will be glad to do it. I will always be grateful to them. They seem to have plenty of volunteers though and they managed well enough be-fore I arrived on the scene.
CM: Please, a few words on how your book was written....
PG: Writing Last Escape felt strange. It sort of wrote itself (do I sound like a cliché?) and the whole thing took about four months from start to finish. I wrote it during the last months of my wife's pregnancy and the birth of my son. I had attempted to write things in the past, but would give up after a few pages and throw the evidence of my crapness in the bin.
PG: I began posting the chapters on a blog as soon as I finished them. I did this so as to encourage my-self to keep writing the story until the end.
PG: I would write for about three hours a day and found myself shocked by my own honesty. I felt very hesitant about being so open, but it felt important to tell the truth.
CM: And how did it come to be published?
PG: I began getting some nice feedback on my blog. A few people suggested that it could make a good book. This was the stuff of dreams for me, but I didn't really feel too confident. A locally famous writer, Andrew Hicks, suggested that I get in touch with Bangkok Bookhouse. I sent them a sample chapter and they offered to co-publish my book. I wanted to call the book, The Temple Where You Go To Vomit, but they decided against this.
CM: Have other addicts read and commented on your memoir? Have any fellow Wat Thamkrabok patients? Have they had unexpected reactions or responses?
PG: I have received some nice comments about the book. The nicest came from a couple of people who claim that 'Last Escape' has encouraged them to go the temple for help. My highest ambition for the book was that it might help somebody; I am delighted to hear when it achieves this ambition.
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The Unanswered Questions... Answered
The memoir left a couple questions unanswered. It's well enough written that it left me engaged and wanting answers. So, if it's not too prying….
CM: What year did you undergo your treatment at Thamkrabok?
PG: I went to Thamkrabok on the 27th of June 2006.
CM: How did you meet Oa?
PG: I met Oa in Chiang Mai. I was actually sober when we met. I had been hitting the alcohol really hard in a holiday resort in the South of Thailand and had arrived in Chiang Mai to admit myself to a temple for a meditation retreat. I decided to spend a couple of days off the drink before going to the retreat because I didn't think that somebody going through the DT's would be made to feel too welcome.
PG: It was the afternoon and I was sitting in a restaurant sipping a soda water and trying to pretend that I didn't even miss the alcohol. As usual I had my nose stuck in a book. Oa came up to me and asked what I was read-ing. I was a bit embarrassed to tell her that I was reading a book about the stages of dying written by Kubler-Ross. She seemed to take this in her stride. I didn't make it to the temple that time, but I ended up spending a lot of time with Oa.
CM: What did you do for a living after leaving the ECC teaching posts in Bangkok?
PG: I found that I could nip back to Ireland for three months of the year and make enough money as an agency nurse to pay for the rest of the year. I trained as a nurse and for all the bad shit I have done over the years I was usually able to perform my job well enough. Since then I have returned to full-time teaching and have even managed to obtain some real teaching qualifications. I will miss nursing, but I enjoy teaching too.
CM: Go on, be the proud papa and tell us a bit about your newborn son.
PG: I know it sounds corny but my son was the greatest thing ever to happen to me. I often look at him and feel amazed that something so wonderful could come from me - or at least half of me. Timmy is amazing and I hope he doesn't grow up too fast.
CM: Most important: have you kept you satja?
PG: I am pleased to say that I have kept my satja. The monks told me that if I kept my vow that great things would come into my life; they weren't kidding.
CM: Once admitted to Wat Thamkrabok, you had to surrender your phone, clothing, money and almost every other possession. You kept two books with you. What titles were they?
PG: I remember that one book was called Buddhist Meditation Masters. It consisted of a collection of essays by various advanced meditators.
PG: The other book was by Dean Koontz and called, From the Corner of His Eye. I wouldn't claim to be a big Koontz fan, but the day before arriving at the temple I was desperately trying to find new reading material and this was all I could find in Mae Sot where I was staying. It turned out to be a good read.
If you have any qustions of your own, please contact Paul via his blog.
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CM: I understand you are currently working on a novel.
PG: Yes, I have almost finished a novel. It is the story of a terminally ill man trying to escape his diagnosis by running away to Thailand. I hope that it will get published, but I have no idea when this might happen. I really enjoyed writing it.
CM: What other accounts of addiction and release do you recommend? There's a title called Heroin from Maverick House that looks interesting, but I have little experience with the subject matter.
PG: I haven't read Heroin yet, but it sounds interesting and I will need to look out for it. The problem with many books about addiction is that they don't sound very realistic. I remember reading A Million Little Pieces and thinking that although it was entertaining that it was complete bullshit. This was before the news came out that it contained a million little lies.
Editorial Note: The actually is a book called A Million Little Lies written by Pablo Fenjves in response to Frey's suspect memoir.
CM: Have we read any of the same shtuff? (Critical Mick Full alphabetic index) Was my review way off about them?
PG: I read Life of Pi and though that it was clever and thought provoking. I like books like that.
PG: I agree that McCarthy's Bar was a good read; although I can't remember much about it now.
CM: What's on your nightstand at the moment? (books, I mean, but other items if you wanna....)
CM: I just finished reading a non-fiction book called The Black Swan: The Impact of the Highly Improbable by Nassim Nicholas Taleb. It was interesting to be reminded just what an unpredictable world we live in.
PG: The next book on my reading list is Crime by Irvine Welsh.
PG: There isn't any English bookstores in the city where I now live - so books are precious.
CM: Do they even have nightstands in Thailand?
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 The Black Swan: The Impact of the Highly Improbable by Nassim Nicholas Taleb. It is highly improbably that this book has any relation to David Mitchell's magnificent novel Black Swan Green.
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PG: Nightstands are thorny issue as my son tends to swipe everything off them. It is expected in Thailand that your children share your bed. In some families children share the parents' bed right up until they reach pu-berty. I suggested to my wife that we put him in a cot, but she reacted as if I was saying that we should abandon him in a train station. So I do have a nightstand, but it doesn't have much on it recently.
CM: In Last Escape, you've settled well enough in to Thailand to act as translator of language and customs to the fellow Westerners (Farang) that you dormed with. What have you found most surprising about the country? What small changes surprised you?
PG: The most surprising thing about Thailand is that the Thais really do think differently from people in the West. The whole society is based around community and saving face.
PG: I recently attended a Thai culture course and they were explaining how this feeling of community leads to a feeling of safety and this explains why motorbikes speed around Thailand with up to six children hanging off them. The Thais just don't consider the danger and fully believe that it if you crash it is due to bad karma.
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PG: Another odd thing is that a Thai will never criticize a superior. We see this a lot in school. My Thai colleagues will never cause the Thai administration to lose face by directly questioning their decisions. Instead they will gossip among themselves until the news gets back to those in charge.
PG: Many westerners criticize the Thais for their culture and way of doing thing, but at the end of the day it's there country. I am happy with things here and try and avoid rocking the boat.
CM: Is there any specific thing that you miss about Dublin?
PG: I think that Dublin is a great city. I am determined that my son grows to love his Irish heritage as well as his Thai. I miss many things about Dublin such as my family, the humour, and decent bookstores. I also miss the change in seasons.
CM: Final question- do you miss peeling bananas from the top? I've heard they're always peeled from the bottom in Thailand.
PG: I've been living here for the last few years and have never seen any such thing.
CM: Many thanks, Paul, and may great things continue to come into your life!
How is Paul doing? How is his novel coming along? What's the latest on the Wat? Paul Garrigan's blog can be found at http://paulgarrigan.blogspot.com
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